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Types of Bonsai
Many kinds of trees, plants and shrubs can be made into a bonsai. A bonsai is a miniature version of a tree planted in a pot. Japanese maples are ideal deciduous trees for creating beautiful bonsai. Using a method called air layering, it is very easy to make a branch sprout roots that will support it after separation from the tree. By selecting a nicely shaped branch, you can start a bonsai tree that will bring years of enjoyment. Here's how to create a tree that would normally take five years or more to develop from seed or cuttings.
Steps
- Do some research. Before you decide to get a tree you should do some research on how to raise and take care of your future bonsai such as soil types, watering procedures, growth principles, and environmental requirements.
- Select the species of tree. When selecting a tree species its important to consider your geographic location. Some trees lose their leaves in the winter and require the temperature to drop below freezing so that they can enter a dormant state and prepare for the spring. Other trees will not survive long in the freezing weather. Some trees will require a lot of water during a hot summer while others are heat hardy. Research the kind of trees that do well in your area. The three varieties of tree most commonly used for bonsai are: 1) Ficus; 2) Juniper; and 3) Chinese Elm.
- Select the size of your bonsai. Bonsai trees can be as anywhere from miniature (6 inches tall) to large bonsai (up to 3 ft tall). Decide what size bonsai you would like before actually going out to select the plant.
- Select the plant. Once you have decided which kind and what size bonsai you would like, you can go to a nursery or a bonsai shop and select the plant that you will use to make your bonsai tree. When choosing a plant, look for leaf color to make sure that the plant is healthy. Then look around at the selection of plants and imagine what each plant would look like after it is pruned. It's important to visualize the bonsai before you buy the plant and bring it home. You do not want to bring a plant home only to decide that it isn't immediately suitable to be a bonsai.
- Select a pot. Selecting the right pot has a lot to do with the desired size and style of the plant. Select a shape and color that you personally find aesthetically pleasing. The pot must be large enough to allow enough soil to cover the roots of the plant. You do not want to have such a small amount of soil in the pot that the tree roots can not retain moisture. You will kill the plant if you do not have a large enough pot. At the same time, you want to maintain the illusion of nature and select a pot just large enough to support the tree. The idea of a bonsai is to balance the pot with the plant and make the plant look like a miniature tree. Some bonsai pots do not come with pre-drilled drainage holes. If you do not have a drill that will cut through ceramic, then make sure you purchase a pot with pre-drilled drainage holes.
- Prepare the tree. Prune the tree to the desired shape. Wire any branches that need to be wired. Remove the plant from its existing pot and water the roots. Most of the roots will be cut before the plant is repotted into the bonsai pot. Cut away enough roots so that the root system can fit securely in the new pot with the proper amount of soil.
- Pot the tree. Install mesh screens over the drainage holes to prevent soil erosion. Add some well draining soil to the pot and then place the tree into the pot. Do not use regular potting soil for your bonsai, it holds too much water and may drown the tree. Before covering the top of the roots with soil, position the tree in the desired orientation. Run a heavy gauge wire from the bottom of the pot through the drainage holes on the bottom of the pot. Tie the wire around the root system in order to hold the plant in place. Finish adding well draining soil to the pot. If it is warm out, make sure to keep the newly planted tree watered well until the roots get established in the new pot. Trees from temperate climates should only be potted in the spring. Trees from tropical climates can be potted whenever the weather is warm.
- Experiment. You can experiment with many kinds of trees, plants and shrubs. Try making bonsai with plants native to your area.
- Join a club. If you can't find a local one, there is one online called the Internet Bonsai Club.
Western Hemlock Bonsai
Western Hemlock is a member of the Pinaceae family which includes cedars, firs, hemlocks, larches, pines and spruces among other evergreen trees. For bonsai, it is an excellent choice as it lives for hundreds of years, grows in a variety of climates, and is easy to care for.
- Get a Western Hemlock. Find one, that is shorter than 1 foot, at a garden store or find one in the wild.
- All Year: Assess the tree's condition. Is the tree damaged? (Many wounds, missing needles, exposed roots, few branches.) Is it healthy? (Lots of needles, lots of new growth, intact bark.) It's always good to know how your tree is doing.
- All Year: Tree Location. Western Hemlocks do well in shade or full sun and in many climates (such as those similar their native climate,) can be left outside year round.
- Late Winter: Pruning. Major pruning should be done in the late Winter, make sure to cover wounds with sealant.
- Early Spring: Repotting. Once every two years, before major growth for the year starts, hemlocks should be repotted.
- Mid to Late Spring: Pruning. When growth is too prolific prune back some of the new growth. New growth is easy to spot as it is bright green.
- Early to Mid Summer: Wiring. Once most growth has ceased, small gage wire 1/3 of the width of each branch to be wired, should be carefully wrapped around each branch that you want to move into a different position. Don't worry about knocking off a few needles in the process.
- Late Fall: Preparing for Winter. Depending on the climate where you keep the bonsai you may need to put it in a green house to prevent hard freezing, but make sure that the tree stays cold enough that it reaches dormancy for the Winter.
- Early Winter: Wiring. Remove all of the wires from summer and rewire the tree.
- Follow a calender of care. Write a calender with all the important dates to remember from this page.
Japanese Maple Bonsai
- Select a branch with a pleasing shape and structure. It can be up to the diameter of your little finger.
- Assemble the items needed. These are listed in the "Things You'll Need" section below.
- Cut around the branch where you want roots to sprout. Make a circular cut through the bark and into the hardwood underneath.
- Make a duplicate cut. Make this about two branch widths below the first cut.
- Make a straight cut. This cut should connect the first two cuts.
- Peel off the bark between the first two cuts. The bark should peel off fairly easily. Make sure none of the cambium layer (the green layer under the bark) is left.
- Dust the top cut with rooting hormone. Wrap the area with the wet sphagnum moss, then wrap it with plastic and tie in place.
- Keep the moss wet. After several weeks, you should see roots through the plastic.
- Separate the tree. When the roots start to thicken and turn brown, separate your new tree by cutting it off below the new roots.
- Place small pebbles for drainage in the bottom of a pot. Partially fill the container with top soil. Unwrap the plastic and without disturbing the roots, plant your new tree, adding additional soil as needed.
- Insert a stake. This will keep the tree from moving and damaging its delicate roots.
- Enjoy your new tree!
Video
How to Transform a Bush into a Bonsai:
Tips
- Air layering Japanese maples is best done in mid to late spring, after the leaves have sprouted.
- Allow your tree to continue to grow until the next season before trying to style or prune it.
- You can also make bonsai trees out of other kinds of trees too.
- Plant your tree in a large container and let it grow for one or two years to increase trunk thickness.
Warnings
- The new roots are very delicate and can be easily damaged. Use care when unwrapping the plastic and potting the tree.
- Do not remove or disturb the sphagnum moss during the process.
Things You'll Need
- any plant indigenous to your area
- sharp knife or scissors
- sphagnum moss that has been soaked in water at least 15 minutes
- a small sheet of heavy plastic
- string
- rooting hormone, available at any garden center
- can add grass or anything for decoration
Warnings
- Wild plants may be on private or government property, be sure to ask for permission first.
- Don't let the tree get dehydrated, if the soil doesn't feel moist, it needs to be watered.
- Don't over-water, needles will yellow if you over-water the tree.
- Trees in poor health should not have any major pruning done on them.
- When pruning off many major branches at the same time be sure to allow for a year of healthy growth in a deep pot before and after the pruning.
- Don't leave wires on for more than a few months as Hemlocks will scar.
- Branches are a little brittle so take some care when bending them.
Things You'll Need
- A Western Hemlock
- Pruning Shears
- Plant Sealant
- Wire 1/3 the width of the branch that it is wrapped around
- Shallow pot with a drain and a saucer
- Deep pot with a drain and a saucer
- Soil, Western Hemlocks will grow in many different soil types including gravely and clay laden soil, to loamy nutrient rich soil, to even rotten wood if one is so inclined.
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Sources and Citations
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